How to Spend the Holidays in New Bern, North Carolina

It’s easy to see why author Nicholas Sparks is inspired by New Bern, North Carolina. The waterfront town that he calls home dates back to 1710, offering visitors both historic attractions like Tryon Palace, a reconstruction of the state’s first permanent capital, and a thriving downtown with an eclectic culinary scene. The town, which was founded by Swiss German settlers (and named after Bern, Switzerland), also happens to be the birthplace of Pepsi-Cola, created by pharmacist Caleb Bradham in 1898 and first sold in his drugstore as “Brad’s Drink.”

One of the best times to visit New Bern is during the holiday season. Christmas wagon and carriage rides begin at the corner of South Front and Craven Streets, and the New Bern trolley gives tours of holiday lights. Bear Plaza—the town’s iconic bear statues are everywhere—is also turned into a winter wonderland for kids.

It was my good fortune to visit New Bern at the same time of year that Nicholas Sparks first laid eyes on the city that would become his home.

“To my mind, New Bern is wonderful to visit during the holiday season, and I clearly remember the first time I experienced it,” Sparks told Travel + Leisure. “In 1992, four years before I published ‘The Notebook,’ I was selling pharmaceuticals in Sacramento, California. I was married with a toddler—Miles was 16 months old at the time—and [my wife], Cathy, and I had made the decision to move to a less expensive area of the country. As fate would have it, there was an opening at my company in the New Bern area, and Cathy and I flew out to visit. It happened to be the first week of December, and I still remember feeling as though I’d rolled right into a painting by Norman Rockwell. Every street in the downtown area was decorated with lit wreaths, Christmas trees were decorated, and business fronts were decked in garlands.”

Like Sparks, I was enchanted by my first visit to New Bern. The Christmas carriages and holiday lights gave me the feeling that I had stepped onto a movie set—a happy accident, no doubt.

“There was also a Christmas flotilla the night we arrived, and decorated boats—large and small—slowly floated past the throngs of clapping people,” Sparks said. “Free hot chocolate was being served, and I remember glancing at Cathy, thinking how different it seemed than the city where I’d spent much of my youth and where I still worked. On that first night, New Bern not only struck me as the place I wanted to live, but as somewhere that felt like home.”

Where to Stay

If you’re looking to stay in New Bern’s historic downtown, it’s tough to beat The Harvey for luxury and convenience. The hotel opened in May 2024, but the building dates back to the 1790s. Other options include The Jarvis at 220, a historic downtown mansion that now serves as a bed-and-breakfast with views of the Neuse River and New Bern’s lovely skyline, and the 1882 Italianate Victorian Aerie Bed & Breakfast, ideal for those seeking a romantic escape.

What to Do

“I have many favorite places to visit during the holidays in New Bern, and in December, I’m likely to visit all of them,” Sparks said. “There’s the Christmas flotilla I mentioned, but also Tryon Palace, which is decorated for the holidays. There’s Santa’s village in Bear Plaza, a Christmas tree lighting and ice skating in Union Point Park, and I often take a drive on Canterbury Road, where virtually every home and tree seems to be decorated with lights.”

Tour Tryon Palace.

Tryon Palace is regal year-round, but during the holiday season, it’s purely magical. A couple of weekends leading up to Christmas, candlelight tours of the former governor’s mansion, led by costumed interpreters, offer a glimpse into colonial times. Outside the palace gates, holiday treats like apple cider and ginger snaps are available, plus there’s a display of fireworks, weather permitting. I didn’t make it for the candlelight tour, but I did see the displays with mistletoe, greenery, and red bows.

Watch the New Bern Christmas parade.

The annual Christmas parade is filled with marching bands, floats decorated by local businesses, and, of course, Santa. The route begins at the corner of George and Cypress Streets, before making a left onto Pollock Street and finishing at the corner of Pollock and East Front Streets, so stake out a prime viewing spot early and don’t forget to bring your folding chairs.

Visit Union Point Park.

Located on the waterfront, Union Point Park provides light displays and food trucks with hot chocolate, coffee, and treats. North Carolina and outdoor ice skating typically don’t go together, but somehow New Bern makes it work. Those dreaming of snow and ice can rent skates for 30-minute sessions for only $5 at the outdoor rink that can be set up regardless of the temperature. Like other families, we found the giant Christmas tree a great photo opportunity.

Watch the Coastal Christmas Flotilla at Union Point Park. 

For those lucky enough to visit during the first weekend in December, the Coastal Christmas Flotilla is not to be missed. Sparks fans will recognize the annual event held at Union Point Park from his book, “The Wish.” Since the mid-1980s, decorated boats have entertained onlookers as they traverse the Trent and Neuse rivers, putting on a second holiday parade of sorts. Despite the cold, bundle up and grab a cup of hot cocoa and a sweet treat from one of the vendors and enjoy the lights.

See the Canterbury Road lights.

At the recommendation of several locals, we took the drive to Canterbury Road in Trent Woods. The colorful light installations topped us off with even more Christmas enchantment. Like the parade and flotilla, a drive by the Christmas lights and yard displays has become an annual tradition for families and visitors.

Join a Nicholas Sparks walking tour.

As a Nicholas Sparks fan, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take a walking tour of locations from some of his most famous books. Download the map for the self-guided tour from the Visit New Bern website. Stops include places featured in “The Notebook,” “A Bend in the Road,” and “The Wedding.”

Where to Shop

The New Bern Farmers Market is open on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. The open-air market has a covered roof, so we did some holiday shopping before the Christmas parade.

Downtown New Bern has a plethora of locally owned stores as well. The Birthplace of Pepsi-Cola sells collectibles starring the city’s favorite drink. Surf, Wind and Fire, The Black Cat Shoppe, Blue Magnolia, and SnapDragon are also worth checking out. Local artists are featured in Carolina Creations, and Mitchell Hardware is a general store where you can find custom downtown New Bern ornaments and lots of things you didn’t know you needed.

Where to Eat

Baker’s Kitchen Restaurant & Bakery

Everything is delicious at Baker’s Kitchen, a spot known for its breakfast favorites and baked goods, including cinnamon rolls and homemade breads. We especially loved the signature chicken and waffles, and even bought a jar of the butter syrup to take home. Note, due to the restaurant’s popularity, there tends to be a wait, so plan accordingly.

Morgan’s Tavern & Grill

Located in a former garage building in historic downtown, Morgan’s Tavern & Grill is known for its salmon, shrimp, and Carolina fried seafood, plus craft beers. Also try the Ribeye “35” and Molasses Chops. The casual, dog-friendly establishment with exposed beams and brick walls is a fun place to kick back after a day of holiday festivities.

How to Get Around

New Bern’s historic downtown is easily walkable, so exploring on foot is a great way to experience the local attractions up close. New Bern Tours offers historic tours year-round, as well as a Beary Merry Christmas tour during the holiday season, complete with caroling and Santa’s elves.

It’s also worth driving about an hour to the Crystal Coast to visit Beaufort, another North Carolina town that’s renowned for its Christmas festivities.

We can’t all be characters in one of Sparks’ romance novels. But on a December night in New Bern, surrounded by twinkling lights, at least for a little while, I sure felt like one.