The Best Place to Celebrate Christmas in the U.S.

Santa Fe is by no means a secret. With incredible mountain desert views, a storied history, and a legendary arts scene, it draws a steady stream of travelers year-round. But few know that the holidays are actually one of the best times to visit The City Different—and it’s truly when it shines the brightest.

During the holiday season, you’ll find reds and greens blanketing the town in the form of piñon pines and dangling clusters of Rudolph’s nose-red chile ristras (chili pepper garlands). Downtown, the Plaza twinkles with thousands of string lights.

But one of Santa Fe’s most magical holiday traditions is farolitos. Sometimes called luminarias, these “little lanterns,” which consist of sand-filled brown paper bags lit by votive candles, originate from Chinese paper lanterns brought to the New World by 18th-century Spanish galleons. When the holidays arrive, you’ll find them lining walkways, rooftops, walls, and porches around town, casting golden glows on the adobe buildings. The effect is downright enchanting. 

One of the best places to experience them is along Canyon Road, a historic district now lined with galleries. Every Christmas Eve, Canyon Road hosts its annual Farolito Walk. Thousands of farolitos illuminate the narrow road, which fills with Santa Feans singing carols, sipping hot cocoa, and perusing warm art galleries. Canyon Road is home to some of Santa Fe’s oldest homes, so it feels like stepping back in time.

As a child growing up in Santa Fe, the Farolito Walk was one of my favorite parts of the holidays; a chance to gaze wide-eyed at the lights, share a special moment with my family, and, in my very young years, scan the sky for Santa. Occasionally, flying farolitos (similar to sky lanterns) were launched into the frosty air to burn out high in the sky. The soaring golden orbs may have fooled my eager spying eyes a few times.

The Santa Fe holiday season kicks off with the Plaza’s holiday tree lighting, which usually takes place right after Thanksgiving. The Plaza is also the setting for the New Mexico History Museum’s Los Posadas reenactment, which depicts the journey of Mary and Joseph. As the heart of downtown, the Plaza is an ideal starting point for discovering Santa Fe’s holiday charms. Walk around and admire the lights before branching out; grab a hot chocolate from The French Pastry Shop and nibble on anise and cinnamon-flavored biscochitos—New Mexico’s official state cookie—at the Santa Fe Biscochito Company. Those seeking a Christmas miracle can find an alternative inside the Loretto Chapel, where a miraculous, “floating” staircase has baffled and intrigued viewers for centuries.

If you still have holiday shopping to do, Santa Fe stores have you covered. ‘Tis the season for sweets, so pop into Señor Murphy Candymaker for piñon or chocolate chile-flavored fudge or Kakawa Chocolate House for decadent drinking chocolate elixirs drawn from pre and post-Columbian chocolate traditions. Find whimsical knick-knacks at Doodlet’s, search for second-hand treasures at Double Take, and support local artists by shopping at galleries and attending seasonal events like the Winter Indian Market. Santa Fe even has its own year-round Christmas shop that claims to be one of the oldest in the country, where you can find New Mexico-inspired holiday gifts like tin ornaments, chile string lights, and even electric farolitos.

It’s also not Christmas in Santa Fe without ordering “Christmas” with your meal; that is, adding red and green chile. Try it over enchiladas, burritos, or tamales at spots like The Shed or La Choza, followed by a honey-filled sopaipilla (fried dough) for dessert.

Outside of town, powder hounds can hit the slopes of Ski Santa Fe, one of the highest ski areas in the continental U.S., and soak in hot spring baths at Ten Thousand Waves. Many pueblos hold ceremonial dances and festivities this time of year as well, but reach out in advance to confirm times, dates, and accessibility, as not all events are open to non-tribal members.

Sitting at over a mile high, Santa Fe gets quite chilly in winter. Get out of the cold with a visit to Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return, an immersive art installation that’s perfect for kids (and the young at heart). Museums also make for a great break from holiday-merrymaking. Head to Museum Hill to visit the Museum of International Folk Art, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, and the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, which hosts its own seasonal illuminations for La Luz de Las Noches.

Finally, at the end of the day, find rooms at The Inn of The Five Graces; there are no mangers here, just ethereal tile and textile-adorned rooms that feel like stepping inside a Christmas ornament.