The Essential Guide to Calistoga, California

In the small town of Calistoga, on the north end of California’s bustling Napa Valley, rocky volcanic peaks hem in a cute town that’s quietly built up a reputation as one of the most charming towns in the area.

Legend has it that Calistoga got its name from a drunken boast made by Mormon pioneer and businessman Sam Brannan. In the mid-19th century, he reportedly stated that he would make the area “the Saratoga of California”—except, in Brannan’s inebriated state, it came out “the Calistoga of Sarafornia.” Thus, Calistoga was born, and the town has maintained its down-to-earth atmosphere and warmth ever since.

“We’re in the Napa Valley, but we’re a place for any budget,” says Eric Reichert, president and CEO of the Calistoga Chamber of Commerce. “Anyone who wants to come up here can feel relaxed and feel like they’re getting the luxury treatment, no matter what their budget is. We include wine in everything we do, but it’s definitely the well-being and wellness aspect that brings people here.”

Though only about two-and-a-half square miles, Calistoga offers tons of activities in a relatively small area—including a cute downtown, wine tastings, and the “Old Faithful” of California.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Calistoga, California.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley

The Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley is located on the edge of town, guaranteeing peace and quiet, but it’s still within walking distance to downtown. The property has a gourmet restaurant, two heated outdoor pools, and an on-site luxury spa, Talisa. The spacious rooms and suites have some of the best views in all of Napa Valley, looking out over Calistoga’s rolling vineyards.

Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort

Just around the corner from Calistoga’s downtown on Lincoln Avenue, Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort is a 60-room property with accommodations that range from palatial suites to snug rooms. You can swim in the indoor and outdoor pools, which are heated with water from the geothermal springs, and book on-site spa treatments like mud baths and mineral soaks. The atmosphere feels reminiscent of a classic Italian villa, and its prime location means you’re just steps from downtown restaurants and shops.

Indian Springs

The oldest spa in Calistoga, Indian Springs first opened its doors in 1861, right on Lincoln Avenue. And though the 17-acre property has been thoroughly updated in the intervening centuries, it hasn’t lost any of its luxuries. The bungalows, cottages, and rooms center around two mineral pools, including one that’s adults-only for a more peaceful soak. Meanwhile, the hotel restaurant, Sam’s Social Club, dishes up farm-fresh American cuisine. “It’s really charming, and the service is amazing,” Reichert says.

Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort

Located squarely downtown and operated by Marriott, Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs leans into a midcentury modern aesthetic across its 50 rooms and on-site eatery, House of Better. It has a full-service spa, three geothermal pools, and a dedicated garden for outdoor treatments. To top it off, it has bikes that can be borrowed and a backyard with lawn games, making it a perfect stay for families.

Best Things to Do

Go for a hike.

Miles of hiking trails wind through the volcanic hills around Calistoga, allowing for vastly different views of the valley depending on which route you pick. On the east side, there’s the sunny, 16-mile, round-trip Oat Hill Mine Trail, a challenging trek that leads you high above the vineyards. On the other side of town at Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, you can hike among shady redwood groves and past a tributary of the Napa River, which runs through town.

Have a spa day.

Calistoga is famous for its geothermal hot springs. The area’s Indigenous Wappo people put the springs to use for thousands of years, followed later by European and American settlers. Establishments around town, like the Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort, Calistoga Spa Hot Springs, and Golden Haven keep the tradition alive, with mineral soaks and volcanic ash mud baths as well as full treatment menus with massages, facials, and more. If you only have time for one treatment, “you need to do a classic mud bath,” says Reichert.

Explore California’s Petrified Forest.

Northern California’s Petrified Forest is a surreal landscape full of massive, fossilized redwood trees, preserved by an eruption of nearby Mount Saint Helena millions of years ago. Visitors can walk the roughly mile-long trail and learn more about the phenomena at this privately owned park, located about 3.5 miles outside the town.

Watch the ‘Old Faithful’ geyser erupt.

One of only three “faithful” (meaning predictable) geysers in the world, Calistoga’s Old Faithful Geyser of California erupts with a showy cloud of steam and a spout of water roughly every 20 minutes. The location also features a petting zoo and gardens, as well as a geology museum with information about how this particular geyser formed. The park-like outdoor space has ample picnic facilities, too.

Bike the Napa Valley Vine Trail.

Stretching 47 miles from Calistoga in the north to Vallejo in the south, the Napa Valley Vine Trail showcases the best of the region’s impressive cycling. The trail is flat, mostly paved, and clearly marked—but for the best experience, book a tour with Vine Trail Adventures.The company partners with the Calistoga Bikeshop to offer cycling tours led by knowledgeable guides, with several routes ranging in length from just a few miles to more than 70 miles. Short sections of the trail are still in the works, so check ahead if you plan to cycle.

Sample local wines.

Even if you don’t think you’re into wine, you can’t visit Calistoga without at least one tasting. The Calistoga American Viticultural Area has more than 50 wineries to choose from, some of which are quite famous among oenophiles and others of which offer a more intimate experience. Downtown Picayune Cellars & Mercantile pours up small-batch wines, Chateau Montelena is set in an impressive stone chateau and is world-famous for its 1976 award-winning Chardonnay (watch the 2008 movie “Bottle Shock” before or after your visit), and the women-owned Larkmead provides refined, sit-down tastings on a sprawling estate.

Best Shopping

Copperfield’s Books

Part of an independent local bookstore chain with locations throughout Napa and Sonoma counties, Copperfield’s Books welcomes visitors with giant butterflies floating above the hardcovers. The selection here covers new releases and old favorites alike, and you’ll frequently see both locals and visitors browsing the pages in this quiet space.

Picayune Cellars & Mercantile

From Native American art to imported clothing to colorful leather bags, you can find everything and then some at Picayune Cellars & Mercantile. Claire Weinkauf, the owner and founder of Picayune Cellars’ wine brand, sources many of the store’s goods from her native France. And don’t forget to set aside time for a tasting before or after you shop—Picayune’s boutique wines make for great gifts and souvenirs.

Field Trip

Billed as both a “shop and a sanctuary,” this downtown boutique sells an eclectic selection of items. And we mean eclectic—we’re talking live plants, crystals, vintage clothing, and even taxidermy displays. Field Trip’s cozy downtown space invites visitors to come in and wander among the aisles—you never know what you’ll walk away with when you’re done.

West of Poppy

West of Poppy sells women’s clothing that strikes a perfect balance between unique and hip. Since Calistoga’s weather can vary—it’s known for massive temperature swings between day and night—West of Poppy carries outfits and items for all seasons. There are even a few bath and beauty products, so you can take Calistoga’s spa vibes home with you.

Ca’Toga Art Gallery

Carlo Marchiori, an Italian immigrant and Calistoga resident of 40 years, opened Ca’Toga Art Gallery in 1999 to showcase his artwork. Head to his gallery to admire his extensive oeuvre of paintings, pottery, and sculptures, all done in a classic, Italianate style. And trust me, don’t forget to look up.

Best Restaurants

Eight North

One of the buzziest restaurants in downtown Calistoga, Eight North is owned by a local winemaking family, the Lawers. Many of the dishes on the menu prominently feature its products, such as the olive oil in the sourdough focaccia and the wine in the braised artichokes accompanying the wild California halibut. Pair your meal with a glass or bottle from Lawer Estates.

Truss Restaurant & Bar

The Four Seasons’ restaurant, Truss Restaurant & Bar, overlooks the vineyards and mountains surrounding Calistoga—and the food is just as amazing as the views. The short rib melts in the mouth, and the lobster linguine is not to be missed. For a true taste of Calistoga, you order the grazing plate, which is packed with local berries, cheeses, and housemade jam. If you still have room, order the show-stopping pavlova for dessert.

House of Better

Attached to Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort, House of Better serves up New Mexican fare for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, including enchiladas and huevos rancheros. Snag a slice of pie for dessert—it has a rotating selection of flavors, but its signature is a delicious green chile-apple concoction.

Sam’s General Store

Housed in the Brannan Cottage Inn, built in 1862, Sam’s General Store is a local institution for coffee and quick bites in the mornings. The pastries and sandwiches won’t disappoint, and neither will the drink offerings, which run the gamut from simple, high-quality coffee to dressed-up tea lattes. You can even take your order to-go with a curated picnic basket.

How to Get There

The most direct way to Calistoga is to fly into Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport (STS) in Santa Rosa, which is about 30 minutes away, and rent a car to drive into town via River Road and Petrified Forest Road. You may also be able to snag a shuttle reservation for a car-free trip if you book in advance. However, you may find more flight options from San Francisco International Airport (SFO), which is about 87 miles away.

How to Get Around

Much of Calistoga is pedestrian and bicycle-friendly, allowing visitors to get around—especially downtown—without a car. For destinations further afield, you can rent a bicycle in town at the Calistoga Bikeshop. The Calistoga Shuttle is an on-demand shuttle service that’s free to visitors staying in Calistoga city limits, and no advance reservations are needed. Wine tour shuttles also run between Calistoga and the major nearby airports, and ride-hailing services such as Uber are also available.

Best Time to Visit

Calistoga offers a unique experience depending on which time of year you visit. During spring, you can enjoy new bottle releases at the wineries, while during fall, the vineyards host events centered around the harvest. You’ll also get fewer crowds and cooler weather during these seasons, since Calistoga can climb above 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer. Visitors should note that Calistoga is famous for its temperature swings, meaning that there are dramatic fluctuations between day and night. Pack plenty of layers accordingly.