This 365-island Chain in The Bahamas Is Becoming One of the Caribbean’s Top Destinations–What to Know

A slender stretch of 365 sandy white islands cutting through the crystal-clear blues of The Bahamas, the Exumas remained sparsely populated and largely undeveloped until the 1700s. Flash forward to today, and it’s still one of the Caribbean’s under-the-radar destinations. Although now, as the wealthy look for privacy in paradise, and the world’s most sought-after resort groups like Aman and Rosewood prepare to plant their own flags there in the coming years, everyone seems to have their sights on the Exumas.

Travel + Leisure readers named the Exumas as one of the top four best islands in the Caribbean in the most recent World’s Best Awards, and the lucky few who have visited them won’t be surprised by their growing popularity. “Easily accessible from major U.S. cities, the Exumas remain refreshingly uncrowded, making them one of the Caribbean’s true hidden gems, at least for now,” says Tommy Turnquest, chief executive officer of Jack’s Bay on neighboring Eleuthera.

While some travelers may wait until the ultra-luxury resorts open, for those who know that the greatest luxury is the tranquility of barely-touched beaches and gin-clear waters, the Exumas are already calling.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Fowl Cay Resort

As the Exumas await a cache of new resorts set to debut across their cays, Fowl Cay Resort stands out as the pioneer of the private island experience in the region. Long considered one of the best resorts in The Bahamas, Fowl Cay sits in one of the most sought-after spots, along white-sand beaches and beside world-famous snorkeling and dive spots. Just six exclusive villas dot the private island’s shores, each providing an all-inclusive experience for visitors with fully stocked kitchens and unlimited access to the property’s restaurant. Each lodging also comes with its own powerboat, perfect for exploring nearby islets and hopping over to the marinas at nearby cays.

Staniel Cay Yacht Club

Smack in the heart of the Exumas, Staniel Cay Yacht Club has become one of the most beloved Bahamian destinations for boaters, who dock at its marina before cosying into one of its collection of cottages and bungalows. Each offers cool coastal decor and plenty of seclusion, along with amenities such as restaurants, events, and beautiful beaches just steps away. Staniel Cay also has its own airport (TYM) with daily direct service from Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport (FXE) via Makers Air, making it uniquely accessible among the region’s cays.

Grand Isle Resort & Residences

Ideal for visitors who don’t want to leave the comfort and convenience of Great Exuma for one of the tiny cays further afield, Grand Isle Resort & Residences marries a private island feel with a more convenient location and resort-level amenities. Situated within Emerald Bay, the property offers 78 villas ranging from one to four bedrooms, two swimming pools, a beachfront with loungers and non-motorized watersports, four restaurants, and a spa.

Paradise Bay Bahamas

With just a handful of cottages and villas on a lesser-visited beachfront, Paradise Bay feels remote despite its location, 30 minutes from George Town, the capital of the Exumas. Paradise Bay is one of a few no-fuss, decidedly more chill places to stay on the island, but its long stretch of beach and crystal-clear waters make this spot feel as charming as any other. The property’s restaurant, Cocoplum Bistro, is one of the best places to eat on the island.

Best Things to Do

Swim through Thunderball Grotto.

Low tides near Staniel Cay reveal an otherwise hidden entrance to the “almost cathedral-like interior” of a secretive underwater cave known as Thunderball Grotto, says diving enthusiast Erik Trinidad of his favorite snorkeling spot in the Caribbean. “Snorkeling here is like swimming in a naturally-formed aquarium, where you’ll see the black and white stripes of banded butterfly fish, silver bar jacks, yellowtail snappers, multi-colored parrotfish, and yellow-tinted, striped sergeant majors,” he recounts. The grotto is so striking that it has appeared in not one but two different James Bond movies: “Thunderball” and “Never Say Never Again.”

Play with pigs at Big Major Cay.

As if the white sands and clear waters of the remote northern cays of the Exumas weren’t reason enough to visit, a pack of pink pigs swimming and frolicking along the shores has made the otherwise uninhabited Big Major Cay one of the most popular destinations in The Bahamas. Legend has it that pirates let pigs colonize the island to create their own personal food source, but now their Instagrammability draws a steady stream of day-trippers from Nassau. Visitors should keep in mind that due to the island’s remote location, reaching Big Major Cay typically takes about two to three hours by high-speed boat from Nassau or around 90 minutes from Great Exuma.

Set sail.

Spending a day on the water is a must to explore all the beautiful beaches and hidden snorkeling spots of the Exumas. Though the famous Tropic of Cancer beach on Little Exuma is easily accessible by car for travelers staying on the archipelago’s two largest islands, travelers should plan a boat day to the cays to visit spots like Compass Cay, where friendly nurse sharks stalk tropical fish near natural tide pools. Bahamas native Noelle Khalila Nicolls recommends visiting the ever-shifting Pipe Creek sandbar off Little Pipe Cay and the natural lazy river near Shroud Cay.

Try sportfishing.

The clear shallows that give way to profound depths all across The Bahamas make the region a particularly sought-after destination for sport fishing. The Exumas are known as one of The Bahamas’ better fishing areas, with champion fisherman and beginners alike coming from far and wide in hopes of landing everything from silvery bonefish and snapper to wahoo and mahi-mahi. Almost every hotel and resort will arrange guided boat tours. Charters are also available from outfits like Out-Island Explorers in George Town. 

Best Restaurants

Chat ‘N’ Chill

Hop on the five-minute water taxi from Great Exuma to nearby Stocking Island, attractive in its own right for its sandy beaches but made even more popular thanks to its legendary beach bar, Chat ‘N’ Chill. Visit early enough in your time in the Exumas, and you’ll want to spend your entire trip at this spot that encompasses everything a Caribbean beach bar should be: toes-in-the-sand dining, delicious beach bites, and expanses of white sand stretching in all directions.

Shirley’s at the Fish Fry

Born and raised in the Exumas and now the director of the Exuma Chamber of Commerce, Emmett Saunders suggests dining at local favorite Shirley’s at the Fish Fry for a masterclass in island cuisine. Conch fritters, cracked grilled lobster, and the crispy grouper burger have made this tiny spot a staple for years, with its friendly service and waterfront location in the heart of George Town being a bonus.

Blu on the Water

Saunders recommends making a reservation at Blu on the Water, one of Great Exuma’s few fine-dining spots, for sweeping ocean views and a menu rooted in freshly grilled seafood. The small bar offers rum tastings and a menu of cocktails for enjoying indoors or on the outdoor terrace, which is especially pretty at sunset. 

Cocoplum Bistro

Set back from the sands of Great Exuma’s Flamingo Beach, Cocoplum Bistro serves a unique mix of French and Bahamian cuisine. The menu feels elevated while the beachfront location lends a more casual feel. Be sure to make a reservation or risk missing out on savoring conch fritters and the signature pulled pork burger.

Santanna’s Bar & Grill

Drive south from Topic of Cancer Beach on Little Exuma, and you can’t miss the colorful Santanna’s Bar & Grill, a roadside eatery with classic Bahamian cuisine and a breezy, beachfront atmosphere. Menu mainstays include fresh lobster and grilled fish, served with sides like rice and beans, fresh slaw, and a homemade “peppa” sauce that’s so good you’ll be stocking your suitcase.

Places to Visit

George Town

Despite having only around 3,000 residents, George Town is the capital and largest settlement in the Exumas. With peaceful streets and classically colorful Bahamian buildings, it barely feels like a city at all, and most visitors will simply pass through. However, travelers staying on Great Exuma or Little Exuma will want to peruse its collection of seaside eateries and shops before taking the five-minute water taxi ride to Stocking Island for a drink at Chat ‘N’ Chill.

Great Exuma

At more than 60 square miles, Great Exuma is the largest island in the Exumas and home to George Town, the international airport, and the vast majority of the archipelago’s hotels, shops, and restaurants. A single main road runs along the island, offering easy access to beaches dotted with just a handful of resorts and restaurants along its fine sands. Beyond George Town, Great Exuma feels so spread out and sparsely populated that it’s hard not to feel you have this paradise all to yourself.

Little Exuma

Stretching out from Great Exuma, Little Exuma is connected to its larger neighbor via a tiny one-lane bridge, but feels like it’s a world of its own. The island’s Tropic of Cancer beach has been a fixture on many best-of lists ranking Caribbean beaches for years, but as Little Exuma’s small but serene collection of boutique hotels and restaurants continues to grow, there’s even more reason to linger a little longer.

The Cays

Just a select few of the 365 islands of the Exumas are inhabited, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t reason to explore some of the archipelago’s lesser-visited cays. Half-day or full-day excursions from George Town transport visitors to more well-known spots like Big Major Cay to meet the swimming pigs, Compass Cay for spectacular snorkeling, and Staniel Cay for its yacht club and boutique accommodations. Those looking to get beyond the most popular spots can rent a boat and explore on their own, or hire a private charter to explore the remote shores that few visitors see.

Best Time to Visit

Consistently gorgeous weather means the Exumas are a year-round destination, but particularly sunny skies and warm temperatures make late November to mid-April the best time to visit. Most visitors time their trips to escape colder climes back home, driving up high-season prices, though even the busiest areas of the Exumas feel like a peaceful escape from busier Nassau.

The Exumas enjoy a short yet sweet shoulder season from late April through early June, when the weather remains consistently pleasant but prices begin to drop. During the Atlantic hurricane season from June through November, expect passing afternoon rain showers and hotter weather even when no tropical storms are in sight. Travelers take note: many resorts and restaurants close during the height of hurricane season, typically from late August to mid-October.

Sailing enthusiasts should plan their visit around the National Family Island Regatta in late April, a beloved racing tradition with over seven decades of history that includes plenty of music, food, and festivities, even for those staying on shore. Festive season and New Year’s in The Bahamas also mean Junkanoo, one of the country’s biggest celebrations, complete with parades and street festivals. While the most over-the-top Junkanoo parties take place in Nassau, George Town marks the occasion with decidedly more subdued, yet still colorful celebrations.

How to Get There

Despite the small size of most islands in The Bahamas, travelers from the United States will find it easy to get to from almost anywhere on the East Coast. “Several airlines currently offer nonstop service to The Bahamas from more than a dozen major U.S. gateway cities, including New York, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, Chicago, Boston, Houston, Charlotte, Orlando, and Miami,” says Turnquest, speaking to a growing airlift making once-remote islands like the Exumas much more accessible.

Most visitors will arrive through Exuma International Airport (GGT), near George Town, which receives regular flights from Atlanta, Charlotte, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Toronto, and Nassau. A small airstrip on Staniel Cay also welcomes daily direct flights from Nassau and Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport (FXE) via Makers Air, a small but growing airline offering regularly scheduled flights and private charters between South Florida and nine destinations in The Bahamas.

How to Get Around

Given the size of Great Exuma and the limited availability of taxis, renting a car is the best way to explore its hidden beaches and more remote corners. Local companies in and around George Town offer plenty of options at relatively affordable rates. For experienced boaters looking to head out to the cays, Minn’s Water Sports rents boats and organizes half-day or full-day cruises, charters, and excursions around the archipelago and beyond. For multi-day sailing vacations, yacht companies like Dream Yacht Worldwide can arrange itineraries around the Exumas that depart from their base in Nassau.