“Do you want to sing with us?” It was the easiest “yes” I’ve ever said.
It was a perfect day in the perfect place during the Opening Ski Weekend in Schladming, a tiny former mining town-turned-winter sports wonderland in the center of Austria. Here, the holiday lights seem to twinkle a little brighter, the snow feels a little softer, and the hot cocoa hits a little harder. Or maybe it all felt that way because I was on a ski lift with two perfect strangers who were just as excited as I was for Opening Ski Weekend’s main event: The Backstreet Boys.
“You are my fire, my one desire,” we sang in unison as we passed the snow-topped pine trees toward the peak. “You are … you are … you are … you are …” we sang, letting out a collective giggle that made my 40-year-old heart feel 13 again.
Each year, the town of 4,400 people roars to life with its seasonal bash, ushering in the winter to come with joy, laughter, and plenty of mulled wine. It’s become the toast of the ski and snowboard community in Europe thanks to its high-caliber concerts, which have featured megastars like Robbie Williams in 2023, Bryan Adams and Sting in 2024, and this year, Brian, Nick, Kevin, Howie, and AJ.
At the top of that lift, I met my travel companion (Travel + Leisure’s own Nina Ruggiero), where we dined at Schafalm, a ski hut so charming, you’d think it was a movie set thanks to its crackling fireplace in the center, cedar walls, and lederhosen-wearing staff.
“Are you guys going to the concert tonight?” three more strangers-turned-friends asked as BSB blared over the speakers, sitting down to join us for our cocoa break. “We’re in the golden circle! Come dance with us,” they yelled as they put on their mittens to get in a few more runs before the concert. We too had to lace up our boots and run to ensure we had plenty of time to put on our butterfly clips and glitter.
While the concert was, without question, a dream come true for any boy-band-loving skier and rider, it was just the start of what’s to love about this place. Everything in Schladming is equal parts cheerful and boisterous because everyone is here to have the best day ever, whether that means shredding the 76 miles of interconnected trails spread across four peaks (with even more available through its partnership with Ski Amadé), enjoying the storybook village, or relaxing in its spas. While you may not be able to check out the Backstreet Boys this season, you can bet that there’s always fantastic entertainment on, as well as a piste for every level. Here’s how to plan the ultimate ski and snowboard getaway to Schladming.
Schladming, Austria
- Schladming’s quaint central village offers a charming look at Austrian life.
- The mountain’s varied terrain ensures that everyone, from absolute beginners to pros, will find their perfect run.
- The town offers plenty of non-skiing fun, including night hikes and toboggan adventures.
- The hotels are ideal for relaxation, with most offering in-house spas to unwind.
- The entertainment offered in Schladming is second to none.
Mirja Geh/Schladming-Dachstein
Where to Stay
Falkensteiner Hotel Schladming
The Falkensteiner is a luxury stay, the Austrian way. Here, guests can expect wood-paneled rooms for the ideal alpine aesthetic, a lobby that smells like the best spa you’ve ever stepped foot into, and a dining room that quickly feels like your living room, with the same table reserved just for you throughout your entire stay. And, it’s an easy walk to the mountain, making it a prime home base for a ski trip.
Stadtvilla Schladming Boutiquehotel
Those looking to stay in the heart of town can check into the Stadtvilla, a charming boutique hotel tucked on a quiet side street. Though it’s smaller, it still has all the right amenities, including a spa, sauna, and infrared cabin, as well as fantastic mountain views.
Natur‑ und Wellnesshotel Höflehner
For travelers looking for a perfect mix of downhill skiing and expert-level relaxing, there’s Natur‑ und Wellnesshotel. The hotel is wellness-centric, with hot tubs, saunas, indoor and outdoor pools, and a full-service spa.
Where to Eat
Hufschmiede Café
Start your day with a well-made cup of coffee at Hufschmiede Café. The café serves every espresso-based drink and drip you could want on a cold winter day, along with matcha, chai, and hot cocoa. The best part? It’s connected to a salon, so you can get your coffee and an updo at the same time.
Das Friedrich
Das Friedrich offers a bit of the Mediterranean in the middle of the mountains. The bar and bistro offers a menu filled with salads, soups, fish, meats, and pastas, including an absolutely divine beetroot tagliatelle with crumbly feta and walnuts, that will fuel your winter adventures.
Stadtbräu
Get a taste of Austrian tradition at Stadtbräu, which offers massive portions of local comfort foods like schladminger knappenpfandl (pork filet in pepper sauce), brauhaustoast (rumpsteak on toast), and, obviously, Wiener schnitzel.
Christine Höflehner/Schladming-Dachstein
Where to Après-ski
Hohenhaus Tenne
Hohenhaus Tenne is the après destination to end all après destinations. It calls itself the “largest après-ski hut in Europe,” and while there is no data to back it up, it’s likely on the money. Get ready to dance, sing, and cheers to a great day on the mountain with thousands of other revelers until 8 p.m., then stay for the after party, when the DJ turns things up starting at 9 p.m.
Planaistub’n Charly’s Treff
For a smaller but still jovial après scene, head to Planaistub’n, a local spot opposite the Planai gondola. It’s cozier and a bit more manageable for those who don’t love a huge crowd but still want a relaxed drink after an epic day on the mountain.
Onkel Willi’s
Soak in the last bit of sun at Onkel Willi’s on the mountain. Known for its own lively après, the ski hut has a massive sun deck, allowing you to drink a post-ski beer while also getting a little tan. Just note that it closes at 5 p.m., so it’s more for the early après-ski crowd.
Mathäus Gartner/Schladming-Dachstein
Off-mountain Activities
Hike the Talbachklamm at night.
Attention night owls, this one is for you. Each winter, the town illuminates the trail through the Talbach Gorge, allowing visitors to see the gorgeous stream and craggy mountain pass until midnight. The hike is about three miles out and back with a slight elevation gain, and it’s snowy, so take your time. But really, that’s kind of the point.
Go tobogganing.
For a mountain thrill that doesn’t involve strapping on your skis or board, Schladming offers a few tobogganing adventures. In fact, it offers 11 in total, including the Hochwurzen Toboggan Run, a four-mile track that is one of the longest toboggan runs in the Alps, along with the natural toboggan runs at Planneralm, Rittisberg, and Stoderzinken. It also offers night tobogganing on several of the runs. You can even stop at the mountain huts along the way for a cup of cocoa to warm up.
Relax at a day spa.
Travelers who are looking for a day off the slopes filled with plenty of pampering, there’s the day spa at Falkensteiner. Here, guests can relax in its sauna area, which includes a Finnish outdoor sauna, bio-sauna, steam room, cold plunge pool, and ice fountain, its relaxation rooms (one of which is filled with water beds to snooze in), and treatment rooms for anyone hoping to indulge in a massage or facial.
How to Ride
Tickets
Ski Amadé offers a unified pass system for the whole four-mountain area (Hauser Kaibling, Planai, Hochwurzen, and Reiteralm) that makes up the Schladming ski area—and beyond if you want to explore more mountains across the Salzburg and Styria ski areas. Available passes for the Schladming area include three-hour, half-day, full-day, multi-day, and season passes. Ski Amadé uses a dynamic pricing model, meaning prices fluctuate throughout the season based on popularity. Tickets for the four mountains start at about $77 for a full-day adult pass, with single-mountain passes available for $62.
Rentals
Equipment rentals are available around the mountains at spots like Brundle Sports. Those skiing at Planai can find two rental locations at the base of the mountain, offering skis, snowboards, boots, and helmets.
Programming
The region is fantastic for skiers and riders of all levels, thanks to its diverse terrain and a variety of ski schools. The area offers everything from kids’ schools to private mountain guides and ski and ride schools for those with disabilities. See all the available schools across the mountain range here.
Peter Burgstaller/Schladming-Dachstein
When to Go
The ski season typically runs from the last weekend of November through mid-April. There was already plenty of snow on the ground during our early December visit, which also came with far fewer crowds than a midwinter vacation. To avoid crowds and get better prices, plan for an early or late-season stay. However, for the best chances at great snow (and an ultra-lively après-ski scene), aim for midwinter. And if you’re already planning ahead to next year, Opening Ski Weekend is an unforgettable time to visit. Stay tuned for next year’s lineup, and see all the entertainment coming to Schladming on its events page at schladming-dachstein.at.
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