Travel Guide to Pantelleria, Italy

Ask anyone who’s been there, and they’ll tell you there’s something magical about Pantelleria. A volcanic island in the Mediterranean, Pantelleria is a satellite island of Sicily, but it’s technically closer to Tunisia than Europe. In the summer, its population swells as Italians flock to the island seeking sun and the chance to swim in the glistening azure sea and soak in the thermal hot springs. The lush landscape is characterized by Mediterranean scrub and dotted with dammusi, traditional stone homes with white domes that date back to the period when the island was ruled by Arabs. Vineyards, caper vines, and olive trees produce prized wines, capers, and olive oil.

This magical island has drawn rich and famous people to its shores, including Giorgio Armani, who owns a villa there where he usually spends the summers. Don’t expect the kind of see-and-be-seen vibes you’ll find on Capri and the Costa Smeralda, though. Pantelleria is the kind of place to go when you want to escape the stress of daily life and get in touch with nature.

“Pantelleria is more than just a destination: it’s an experience where nature’s raw beauty meets the enduring traditions of the island’s life,” says Gabriela Favara, who grew up visiting the island with her family, the winemakers behind Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s leading wineries. I recently visited Pantelleria with Gabriella and fell in love with it, so I asked her and Linda Sarris, a Palermo-based chef and travel consultant who organizes retreats in Pantelleria, to share their insider tips for the island. Read on for everything you need to know to plan a trip there.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Le Case del Principe

“Rent a dammuso house at Le Case del Principe in Kattibuale for a private stay with your own terrace overlooking the sea,” suggests Sarris. “It’s one of the very few places on the island with direct access down to the water.” This option is great for groups, as there are houses that can accommodate up to seven guests.

Parco dei Sesi

“For those looking for additional amenities, enjoy catered meals, a shared swimming pool, or massage treatments in the perfectly designed spaces at the 12-room boutique property at Parco dei Sesi on the west coast located inside the Sesi archaeological site that dates back 5,000 years,” says Sarris.

Pantelleria Dream Resort

At this four-star resort spread over four hectares, each suite occupies its own little dammuso. Relax by the infinity pool and pool bar, enjoy simple meals in the restaurant, and watch the sunset over the Mediterranean at this tranquil spot.

Best Things to Do

Admire the iconic Elephant Arch.

“Don’t miss the iconic Elephant Arch, a geological marvel that embodies the spirit of the island,” says Favara. “This stunning structure is a natural rock formation that resembles the trunk of an elephant dipping into the Mediterranean Sea.” She suggests swimming and snorkeling here, taking a boat out to explore the hidden coves, and of course, photographing this natural marvel from every angle.

Get a natural spa treatment at the Lago di Venere.

Favara and Sarris both recommend visiting the Lago di Venere (Venus Lake), a volcanic lake formed millions of years ago that’s known for its rich mineral content. “Slather yourself with the soft, healing mud from the Lago di Venere lake and let it dry in the sun before rinsing off in the lightly bubbling thermal water springs for the best natural spa treatment, leaving your skin silky smooth,” Sarris says.

Do a wine tasting at one of the island’s wineries.

“Reserve ahead at one of the island’s top cantinas for a tasting of aromatic dry zibibbo wines and sweetly balanced passito at Cantina Basile or Marco De Bartoli in Bukkuram, Abbazia San Giorgio in Mueggen, or the Donnafugata estate in Khamma,” suggests Sarris.

Savor a bacio pantesco.

“A visit to Pantelleria isn’t complete without savoring a bacio pantesco,” Favara notes. “This delicate pastry, with its crispy shell and rich, sweet filling, embodies the island’s unique culinary traditions. Happiness for the senses!”

Visit the Giardino Pantesco.

Favara recommends visiting the Giardino Pantesco, a garden maintained by the Fondo Ambiente Italiano on the grounds of Donnafugata’s Khamma estate. “It is a traditional circular stone garden, a marvel of local agricultural innovation,” she explains. “These structures, built from volcanic stones, protect citrus trees from the island’s harsh winds and dry climate while retaining moisture in the soil.”

Best Shopping

Zillaco

“Stop by Zillaco in the main town of Pantelleria for unique watercolors and illustrations printed on fabrics by local artist Margherita Borin,” Sarris suggests.

Cosi Tinte

“Cosi Tinte is a new shop in Scauri where you can find creative home goods, tablewares, clothing, or ceramics,” Sarris notes.

Best Nightlife

Tanit Lounge Bar

According to Sarris, this casual beach bar in the port of Scauri is the place to be in the summer. Come for an aperitivo at sunset and stay for the live DJ sets.

Sesiventi

Sarris also recommends this popular bar with ample seating on a terrace that boasts sweeping panoramic views of the island’s domed rooftops.

Best Restaurants

Il Principe e il Pirata

“Pantelleria is not well known for its dining scene,” Sarris explains, continuing, “In fact, most travelers opt to rent traditional dammusi houses and host gatherings at home, but you can’t go wrong at Il Principe E Il Pirata, the island’s best Slow Food and Michelin-mentioned osteria for fresh seafood and great wines near the hot springs of Gadir.”

Ristorante Bar La Vela

Grab a table on the terrace of this no-frills restaurant overlooking the sea and prepare to be blown away by the flavors of traditional Sicilian cuisine. The appetizers, including the panelle (fried chickpea pancakes) and roasted peppers with almonds, are not to be missed.

Il Gelato di Ulisse

“Stop for a gelato in Scauri Basso for artisan scoops at Il Gelato di Ulisse,” Sarris recommends. “The Napolitana owner mixes up intense island flavors like dark chocolate with capers, a refreshing basil gelato, and one made with passito, a local sun-dried raisin wine.”

Towns to Visit

Pantelleria

“Pantelleria offers a unique balance between essential modern conveniences and untamed natural beauty,” says Favara. “While the main town serves as the hub for essential services, the true essence of Pantelleria lies in its rugged, volcanic landscapes and wild charm.”

Scauri

“Begin your journey with the breathtaking sunsets over Scauri, a perfect introduction to the natural beauty of this area. From this side of the island, you can admire Africa on clear days,” says Favara.

Khamma

“The island’s spirit comes alive in its contrade, such as Khamma and Scauri, which provide basic necessities without compromising the authentic allure of the island,” says Favara. “These small, picturesque villages are perfect for immersing yourself in the local culture while staying connected to the comforts you need.”

Best Time to Visit

Pantelleria is a seasonal destination that comes alive in the summer, when all the restaurants and bars are open for business. In May and June, not everything will be open yet, but according to Favara, the climate is perfect for outdoor activities like hiking and cycling. “August will be the busiest month with higher rates for overnight stays and car rentals, but if your main goal is swimming, then the height of summer can be best if you plan ahead,” Sarris explains.

“In my opinion, the ideal situation is September. The days are still long, the heat of full summer gives respite, and there are fewer crowds,” Favara says. “Then, you can breathe all the magic of the harvest that has just ended. There is an enchanting atmosphere given by the feeling of the end of summer and the hard work of the grape pickers.”

How to Get There

The island is served by Pantelleria Airport, a small regional airport with flight connections to and from mainland Italy. In the summer, ITA Airways offers flights from Rome and Milan, Volotea has flights from Bologna, Bergamo, Venice, and Verona, and DAT connects the island with Palermo, Trapani, and Catania.

How to Get Around

According to Sarris, public transit isn’t very reliable on Pantelleria and taxis are scarce. It’s best to rent a car or scooter (but only if you have plenty of experience driving on two wheels).